Want to Teach Democracy? Improve School Lunches

Note: This post is part of the Nation's special issue, "Food for All," about food politics. In the issue, leading restauranteurs and social justice activists were asked to reflect on how we can democratize our food systems and improve access to healthy foods for all. This is Alice Waters contribution to the forum.

I was moved by the way Morgan Spurlock framed a narrow long-distance shot down the corridor of a Beckley, West Virginia, middle school in his outstanding 2004 film, Super Size Me. The film is about the toll that fast and processed food takes on all of us. Clearly visible in the background of this particular shot were dozens of students, many of whom were overweight.

Perhaps it should come as no surprise that Beckley's cafeteria offers only processed food, which is high in fat, sodium and sugar and of very little nutritional value.

Contrast this with the Central Alternative High School in Appleton, Wisconsin. The school serves troubled youth, but teachers, parents and administrators found a way to turn things around; and when they did, discipline problems dropped sharply. Their secret? Instead of the usual processed meals, the school cafeteria offers fresh, locally grown, low-fat, low-sugar alternatives. The healthier meals are delicious. The students love them. They perform better in class and don't get sick as often.

We are learning that when schools serve healthier meals, they solve serious educational and health-related problems. But what's missing from the national conversation about school lunch reform is the opportunity to use food to teach values that are central to democracy. Better food isn't just about test scores, health and discipline. It is about preparing students for the responsibilities of citizenship.

That's why we need to talk about edible education, not just school lunch reform. Edible education is a radical yet common-sense approach to teaching that integrates classroom instruction, school lunch, cooking and gardening into the studies of math, science, history and reading.

Edible education involves not only teaching children about where food comes from and how it is produced but giving them responsibilities in the school garden and kitchen. Students literally enjoy the fruits of their labor when the food they grow is served in healthy, delicious lunches that they can help prepare.

I learned this firsthand through the Chez Panisse Foundation -- the organization I helped create to inspire a network of food activists around the world with edible education programs in their own communities. Here in Berkeley, I see children in our edible education program learn about responsibility, sharing and stewardship and become more connected to themselves and their peers. In the process, they come to embody the most important values of citizenship.

Listen to what one student named Charlotte has to say: "Next we went from the blue corn to the sweet corn and each picked an ear to grill. I must say it tasted really good, even without butter." Or Mati: "I think cleaning up is as important as eating. Cleaning up is sort of fun. And we can't just leave it for the teachers, because we made the mess." Or Jose: "I remember the first time I came to the kitchen. I was afraid to do anything. But then I realized, this is my kitchen. So then I started to enjoy it."

Charlotte, Mati and Jose are learning about so much more than lunch. They're learning that farmers depend on the land; we depend on farmers; and our nation depends on all of us. That cooperation with one another is necessary to nurture the community. And that, by setting the table for one another, we also take care of ourselves. School should be the place where we build democracy, not just by teaching about the Constitution but by becoming connected to our communities and the land in more meaningful ways.

In 1785, Thomas Jefferson declared that "Cultivators of the earth are the most valuable citizens. They are the most vigorous, the most independent, the most virtuous, and they are tied to their country and wedded to its liberty and interests by the most lasting bonds."

I believe he was right. The school cafeteria, kitchen and garden, like the town square, can and should be the place where we plant and nourish the values that guide our democracy. We need to join a delicious revolution that can reconnect our children to the table and to what it means to be a steward. This is the picture of a caring society, and this is the promise of edible education.

[link to article]

Farm to school a tough row to hoe

Local growers vying to supply schools face maze of rules By CHRISTEN GOWAN, Staff writer First published in print: Friday, September 11, 2009 ALTAMONT -- Peter Ten Eyck of Indian Ladder Farms is hoping that area school children will get a taste of his apples every school day. Ten Eyck is one of the many farmers in the area working to sell their produce to schools, adding to business that has been steady since the local produce movement gained momentum. "It turns out to be really complicated," Ten Eyck said. The Indian Ladder Farms owner said government school lunch regulations, transportation and coordinating deliveries have been major obstacles to getting his apples in local schools. Ten Eyck has had interest from schools in Bethlehem, Ravena-Coeymans-Selkirk and Voorheesville, but hasn't made the deals to start the deliveries. He's looking to boost his business to bolster the busy six or eight week harvest season. A 30-page guide titled "From Farm to School: A Guide and Directory From Schools, Institutions, Organizations and Farms for Buying and Selling Local Meat and Produce in the Hudson Valley Region," released by the Hudson Mohawk Resource Conservation and Development program, a nonprofit group that promotes environmental and resource conservation, promotes the relationship between farms and schools. The guide gives farmers tips on which schools are looking for local produce, and tells school lunch managers what fruits and vegetables are in season and how to buy from local farms. "Prior to starting this project, the biggest barrier (in farm to school) was food service directors didn't know how they could comply with state regulations," said Elizabeth Marks, coordinator of the Hudson Mohawk RC&D. For school lunch directors, the choice to go local is a positive one, but it can be costly. "We have such wonderful farm land around us," said Margaret Lamb, school lunch program director for Saratoga Springs City School District. "It seems like such a simple choice to make." Saratoga Springs uses apples from Saratoga Apple in Schuylerville and Knight Orchards in Burnt Hills. The district has also stopped serving french fries, and instead makes baked potato wedges from potatoes grown at Sheldon Farms in Salem. In Schodack, the first deliveries went out this week from The Farm and Kristy's Barn in Schodack to Averill Park and Hoosick Valley schools. The districts teamed up to receive local food deliveries from Kristi's, which sold the districts apples, peaches and tomatoes. For farm manager Ken Johnson, the school programs will be a side business to the farm's main retail and wholesale operations. "This is just another avenue to move our excess product," Johnson said. Johnson said he's planted additional tomatoes in the hope of selling to more school districts. For local farmers, though, getting their products to schools is about getting through the red tape to bring their produce to the kids. "It can be done," Ten Eyck said. "It's just a lot of little steps and hitches." To read the Farm to School guide, visit http:// farmtoschool.cce.cornell.edu and click on Resources. Christen Gowan can be reached at 454-5350 or by e-mail at cgowan@timesunion.com. [link to article]